St. Petersburg's wintry allure

I got back this week from my first trip to St. Petersburg and I certainly hope it won’t be my last one. What a city!

I just loved the facades of the buildings lining the city’s rivers and canals – blues, pinks, browns, greens and beiges. The coloured fronts, along with the white snow covering the ground, brightened up what otherwise could have been rather gloomy, grey January days.

It’s an easy city to explore on foot and so I made the most of that. And when it got too cold, there was always a cafe to hand for a pot of tea (I hadn’t realised what big tea-drinkers Russians are. I thought they generally just went for the harder stuff!) or a bowl of soup, a meat pie or a stuffed pancake. Of course, there was plenty of culture to enjoy too.

The Hermitage was amazing – I spent an entire day there and still barely touched the surface of what was to be seen. The Russian Museum was of a more manageable size and yet because there were so many new artists for me to discover, once again I felt that I didn’t really do it justice. That said, it more than piqued my interest to learn more about Russian art and I’ll be on the lookout for Russian exhibitions closer to home. I particularly liked the work of Natalya Goncharova (1881-1962), who painted both Winter (at the top of this blog post) and Four Envangelists (below).



On the musical front, I went to the Mariinskiy Theatre and saw Tchaikovsky’s Pikovaya Dama (Queen of Spades). I thought it was a brilliant production and the tenor playing the lead role of Herman, Vladimir Galuzin, was particularly impressive. Being in the Mariinskiy was a great experience in itself and then to be seeing a Russian opera set in St. Petersburg just topped it off perfectly.

An afternoon concert in the St. Petersburg Philharmonia was another highlight. The Philharmonia has an amazing history, with a seemingly endless list of famous 19th century musicians who performed here and great Russian composers who premiered their works here. The best-known example perhaps is Shostakovitch’s “Leningrad Symphony,” which was written during the Blockade of the city in World War II, and broadcast from the Philharmonia in August 1942.

Unfortunately there wasn’t any Russian music on while I was there. Instead I was treated to a programme of Mozart and Haydn, with a mesmerising performance of Haydn’s cello concerto in D major by Lithuania’s Vytautas Sondeckis.

I could say so much more about each of the above aspects of my trip and maybe I will in a future blog post. For now though, I think I’ll put on one of the CDs I bought and have another look at my photos!

Binoche turns Brussels opera into cinema

La Monnaie opera house turned itself into a cinema for the first time on Monday evening, with a showing of Mauvais Sang, a film from 1986 starring Juliette Binoche. Before the film started, the French actress came on stage to give a half-hour interview about her work and life.

The main reason for her being in Brussels this week is a dance performance that she’s giving with Akram Khan, In-I. I didn’t know that Binoche was also a dancer. Apparently she isn’t, or at least wasn’t until last year. “You have to discover new things, push yourself,” Binoche told the audience. And that was one of the reasons why she accepted the opportunity to work with Khan.

It’s not only Binoche the dancer who is in the Brussels spotlight. The cinematheque is holding a retrospective of her films this month. Given that retrospectives are more often for the dead or those whose heyday is over, Binoche assured the audience that her acting career wasn’t over.

She did acknowledge, however, that on several occasions she had considered giving up acting and once went to her teacher to ask for a lesson in how to teach acting, thinking that could be an alternative career. She was met with the words “No way! Not yet.”

“Sometimes the desire to do something isn’t there any more. But you just have to be patient. It comes back,” Binoche said.

As for the film Mauvais Sang. I unfortunately felt like I was in a film studies class at university thinking I’m sure I’m supposed to find this intellectual and ground-breaking, but I don’t. Highlights: the aerial shots of three of the characters parachuting down to ground; the lines delivered by a sinister American female character who (intentionally) spoke French with an amusing Anglophone accent. Lowlights: the clever camera shots substituting for what it lacked in plot and character depth; too many occasions when I found myself simply thinking “what?”